Projects · Sewing for Others · Tops

In-vested.

 

I thought I would write a blog post about the process behind creating two bridespeople vests for my friend Sarah’s wedding.  A little background: I’ve known Sarah since elementary school.  We were each other’s Spanish language partners in junior high and documentary filmmaker partners in our twenties.  She has been a great friend all these years and I’m a big fan of her entire family, who are all wonderful people as well.

Sarah approached me a few months before her wedding and asked if I would be able to contribute by sewing these vests.  After some consideration, I agreed – I’m less intimidated making flat pattern adjustments and doing fittings since taking Suzy Furrer’s classes on Craftsy and Lisa Maynard’s class on Flat Pattern Adjustments.  The challenge would be creating not one, but TWO lined garments for two differently shaped people.

Rachel and Adam were the people in question: thankfully, it turned out that they have extremely similar measurements in the upper body, which made adjustments a lot easier.

I already had a decent vest pattern in my collection: Simplicity 2895, a sort of Wild West costume pattern set that I actually bought for Halloween 2016.  I used it to make a black frock coat for Elias’s costume and saved the pieces.

I cut a 38 (the smallest size), and traced it off onto paper. I then used a vest that Rachel had given me to compare sizing.  I kept the width of the pattern piece the same, but I raised the armhole considerably, shortened the length, and took in an inch and a half for her vest to make it sit better on her shoulders.  You can see below that I raised the armhole up about an inch.

I sewed Rachel’s vest first, and then I made Adam’s adjustments on the same piece. Adam has broader shoulders and a slightly longer torso, so I added back an inch to the shoulder width and length (after removing for Rachel’s).

I also changed the location of the upper welt pocket, which was in a weird spot, I thought, in the pattern marking.  I moved it up and closer to the edge of the vest. You can see this below.

Welt pockets! These were a study in patience. And fray check. And seam ripping.  It’s been years since I did them – I suppose I could have left them off, but they’re so elegant looking on menswear. And practical.

Fully lined with rayon bemberg.

I did the buttonholes and buttons with my mom’s awesome Janome New Home 3000.  The rest was done on my 20-plus year old champion of a machine, a Bernina 1000 Special.

The back of the vest has a waist tie for more fitting. Here’s a sideview.

These vests were a labor of love and a pretty intense project! I’m not exactly set up for production line sewing; it would have been more efficient to cut out both vests and sew them together, but I wanted to see how Rachel’s fit before I started on Adam’s. I’m glad I did it that way since I made some adjustments that were easier to carry over on the second one.   I’m hopefully that Adam and Rachel will wear these for years to come.

Congratulations, Sarah!

 

 

 

Projects

Halloween.

I thoroughly enjoy any excuse to start a new project. Halloween is no exception. One of my finest moments was waaaay back in 2007, when I made this, a gila monster costume.

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For the unitiated, the gila monster is not, in fact a monster, but an actual lizard – the only venomous lizard in the US, in fact! – and it resides in the Southwestern United States as well as the Sonora area of Mexico.   I had so much fun making this. I used a tutorial to from some long-defunct early website that had step-by-step instructions for measurements to craft a custom leotard. I used a baseball hat to form the head over with upholstery styrofoam,  and wooden beads for the eyes.  I bought black gloves and glued gold Lee Press-On nails for the “claws,” giving this costume a vaguely “Cats” like appearance.  Note: I did not sing musical theatre while wearing this, though I did dance enthusiastically. My favorite comment from the night was from a man on the street: “Is that a maaaan, or a woman in there? ” As the costume front hood covered up the chest area, and because I am narrow hipped, it was a slightly androgynous look.

Fast forward to 2011: when Elias and I were first dating, I showed him this costume, and we decided to make an axolotl costume that he could wear during the first Halloween we spent together as a couple. Mind you, these two animals would never encounter each other in the wild, but they both share all the hallmarks of Very Unusual Creatures.  Elias actually has a pet axolotl, Irwin, who glows in the dark under a black light due to being spliced with jellyfish DNA (a common practice in axolotls kept in labs: as they can regenerate their own limbs, they are often kept for experiments.

Here we are as the axolotl and the gila monster, in 2011. I used a soft polyester plush material for the head, again forming it over a baseball cap, and sewed the gills separately, stuffing with foam.

axolotlgila

Fast forward again to 2014:

I used Wintercroft Masks’ amazing Skull mask to create a Dia De Los Muertos skull mask for when our band played a friend’s house party.  Not sewing per se, but still fun.

diade

This year: we’re going as plague doctors.  What is a plague doctor, you ask? Well, it’s a real life, historical fact that doctors wore these insanely creepy masks to tend to victims of the bubonic plague in the Middle Ages.  Here’s an interesting article about this phenomenon from i09/gizmodo.com.

I’m making the masks out of vinyl and stitching with leather cording, but I still need to find a hat. As this article states, “no job in the 17th century really meant anything unless it had an official hat.” Disease HATES hats.

plague.png

Projects · Tops

Seersucker Belcarra

belcarra1

This blog has lain long neglected, but I thought I would begin the series of 2016 posts by writing about something that I wear on a near-weekly basis: this seersucker Belcarra Blouse, by Sewaholic Patterns. I actually made this in August of 2015, right before the school year started. Even though I’m an adult, an instructor, and not technically in need of “new school clothes,” I still like making something to celebrate the start of the new semester.

I downloaded the pdf of this pattern, and, after reading about the sizing for Sewaholic patterns (small busted/narrow up top, wide hipped, aka pretty much the opposite of how I’m built) I decided to do a full bust adjustment and cut a size 12 based on measurements. However, when I tried it on it was huuugge, and the necklace was way too wide, and gaped in front – plus there was a whole bunch of ease in the back. Since reading more about others who’ve made this pattern it seems like the neckline issues are pretty common.  I nipped in the back center seam, and took in the neckline with three darts on the front.  I actually like the way these front darts look with the striped seersucker I used – which incidentally is THE best summer fabric for the hot, dry summers we have out here in the Central Valley of California.

belcarra2belcarra3Since making this blouse, I have made two more Belcarras –  one in a polyester from Joann’s, and one from linen – and I sized down to an 8, without an FBA. Both fit fairly well, but the issue with the gaping neckline remains, and I still like this one the best.  I recently took a Craftsy class on making flat pattern adjustments, and learned enough to re-draft the Belcarra blouse into a more fitted style with flowy sleeves and used great rayon challis I picked up at Britex Fabrics.

All in all, I like this pattern a lot: especially the sleeve binding detail, which is a feature I’m noticing on a lot of blouses and shirts – even in knits – and the raglan sleeves.  I’m modeling it in the hay bale winter garden that Elias planted.  If you’ve never seen or tried this kind of planting, you can learn more about it here: a very cool way of container gardening.

Dresses · Projects · Uncategorized

Lady in Red

dress“…The lady in red is dancing with me, cheek to cheek,
There’s nobody here, it’s just you and me,
It’s where I want to be,
But I hardly know this beauty by my side,
I’ll never forget the way you look tonight…”

When I hear the song “Lady in Red,” I’m immediately transported to another time in place: a time of acne, Trapper Keepers™, and vague adolescent angst.

I am thirteen and at a junior high school dance.  It’s always the last dance of the night, and as the chorus of the song swells,  I watch my classmates dance under the watchful eye of the Vice Principal, their arms outstretched and stiff on each other’s shoulders like conjoined zombies.  Before the song ends, someone asks me to dance too, and now I am swaying with the music, my hands placed awkwardly on the shoulders of some teenage boy, staring to the right or left of his shoulder, making nervous conversation.

This dress was the result of a self-drafted pattern. My sister, who has always had an amazing eye for fashion and color, spotted this bolt of this fabric on a shopping trip last summer, and we each ended up getting about 5 yards each.  It’s odd stuff: polyester, rayon, with about a 50 percent two-way stretch.   Both of us immediately saw it and thought: WIGGLE DRESS.
I wasn’t sold on any of the patterns I found – and so I decided to base it off a dress that I love, a stretch gray plaid thrift store purchase with princess seams, cap sleeves, and a fitted, two-piece construction.

My process leading up to the making of this dress:

  • try on favorite dress in closet.
  • Realize that said dress is too small now
  • Squeeze into it anyway and proceed to break the zipper
  • Curse loudly
  • Make a mental note to go to the gym a lot more, starting after the holidays
  • Take off the dress and proceed to rip it up into pieces, which was oddly satisfying.
  • Draft a pattern from those pieces and add:
    • longer zipper
    • more ease
    • pockets!
    • cap sleeves cut on the bias – because the added stretch is necessary to give my arms room to raise above my head; the old dress was a little lacking in that department.
    • a longer skirt and a kick pleat

I gotta say, I’m really happy with it, and my additions to the original pattern make this a wiggle dress that I actually want to wiggle into.  And I mean – nothing says sex appeal like pockets, right?  Being able to shove your phone and keys somewhere, allowing your hands to gesticulate freely, is something I value highly. It’s comfortable without being constricting, red is my favorite color, and overall – I achieved my vision with this fabric.

What I would have done differently:
I originally applied tricot interfacing to a facing for the waistband, which radically changed (read: tightened) the fit and made it a little uncomfortable, so I was forced to unpick a bunch of hand-stitching and remove the interfaced facing from the inside, which was annoying and tedious.  If I make this pattern again, I’d like to try it in a fabric with less stretch and more body (the original fabric was about 25% 2-way stretch) – and I’m excited to see how it would look in a cool pattern or maybe a solid color rayon for the summer months. Honestly, as much as I love the color of this fabric, it pre-washed strangely – and it easily snags, leading me to believe that it’s not the best of quality.

What I learned:
I (re)learned several new things: how to draft a kick pleat and finish/bind a cap sleeve, install an invisible zipper, how to use my twin needle for finishing hems, AND try out my new Bernina walking foot. I LOVE the walking foot and I’ve since used it on a bunch of other stretch fabric projects.

red_dress
at the wedding of a friend this May.