Dresses · Music

Floral viscose dress

There’s always something thrilling about finishing a project at the absolute last minute, which may be part of why I waited till the eleventh hour to start working on most of my high school (and, let’s be honest) college essays.  This dress was definitely that kind of project. And it shows… there are definitely many imperfections, but overall I’m happy with it!

Sewing is something I generally do in shorter increments of time these days, so luckily I had already cut and prepped a lot of the pieces a couple of weeks prior.  However,  most of the work on this dress was completed the day before I was planning on wearing it, for a performance at a local arts and wine festival.  I sang as a guest on a few songs with a fantastic band performing there.   They are seriously great musicians, and it was humbling to be on stage with them, particularly the vocalist Kenny Washington, who is as kind and generous as he is prodigiously talented.

This dress is actually made from the same pattern I used for an earlier make – which was in turn based off a dress I bought at Crossroads Thrift Store.  The differences in this one – I used a woven instead of a stretch woven, French seamed everything, and slashed/spread the sleeves and lengthened them so they were more fluttery than before.  Slowly but surely, I’m refining this pattern into something I can make multiple ways.  However, the idiosyncrasies that happen when you’re not a professional drafter have inspired me to learn more about drafting myself; it’s annoying when pieces don’t match and edges don’t meet up.

TIPS: I found this tutorial from Lladybird to be very helpful in finishing cap sleeves.

The fabric is a rayon/ viscose from Stone Mountain Daughter Fabrics, and thankfully I bought enough of it to make a tank top as well.  I don’t see it on their online store, but they do have some beautiful rayons in stock right now!

Thanks to James Jordan for the performance photos!


Dresses · Projects · Uncategorized

Lady in Red

dress“…The lady in red is dancing with me, cheek to cheek,
There’s nobody here, it’s just you and me,
It’s where I want to be,
But I hardly know this beauty by my side,
I’ll never forget the way you look tonight…”

When I hear the song “Lady in Red,” I’m immediately transported to another time in place: a time of acne, Trapper Keepers™, and vague adolescent angst.

I am thirteen and at a junior high school dance.  It’s always the last dance of the night, and as the chorus of the song swells,  I watch my classmates dance under the watchful eye of the Vice Principal, their arms outstretched and stiff on each other’s shoulders like conjoined zombies.  Before the song ends, someone asks me to dance too, and now I am swaying with the music, my hands placed awkwardly on the shoulders of some teenage boy, staring to the right or left of his shoulder, making nervous conversation.

This dress was the result of a self-drafted pattern. My sister, who has always had an amazing eye for fashion and color, spotted this bolt of this fabric on a shopping trip last summer, and we each ended up getting about 5 yards each.  It’s odd stuff: polyester, rayon, with about a 50 percent two-way stretch.   Both of us immediately saw it and thought: WIGGLE DRESS.
I wasn’t sold on any of the patterns I found – and so I decided to base it off a dress that I love, a stretch gray plaid thrift store purchase with princess seams, cap sleeves, and a fitted, two-piece construction.

My process leading up to the making of this dress:

  • try on favorite dress in closet.
  • Realize that said dress is too small now
  • Squeeze into it anyway and proceed to break the zipper
  • Curse loudly
  • Make a mental note to go to the gym a lot more, starting after the holidays
  • Take off the dress and proceed to rip it up into pieces, which was oddly satisfying.
  • Draft a pattern from those pieces and add:
    • longer zipper
    • more ease
    • pockets!
    • cap sleeves cut on the bias – because the added stretch is necessary to give my arms room to raise above my head; the old dress was a little lacking in that department.
    • a longer skirt and a kick pleat

I gotta say, I’m really happy with it, and my additions to the original pattern make this a wiggle dress that I actually want to wiggle into.  And I mean – nothing says sex appeal like pockets, right?  Being able to shove your phone and keys somewhere, allowing your hands to gesticulate freely, is something I value highly. It’s comfortable without being constricting, red is my favorite color, and overall – I achieved my vision with this fabric.

What I would have done differently:
I originally applied tricot interfacing to a facing for the waistband, which radically changed (read: tightened) the fit and made it a little uncomfortable, so I was forced to unpick a bunch of hand-stitching and remove the interfaced facing from the inside, which was annoying and tedious.  If I make this pattern again, I’d like to try it in a fabric with less stretch and more body (the original fabric was about 25% 2-way stretch) – and I’m excited to see how it would look in a cool pattern or maybe a solid color rayon for the summer months. Honestly, as much as I love the color of this fabric, it pre-washed strangely – and it easily snags, leading me to believe that it’s not the best of quality.

What I learned:
I (re)learned several new things: how to draft a kick pleat and finish/bind a cap sleeve, install an invisible zipper, how to use my twin needle for finishing hems, AND try out my new Bernina walking foot. I LOVE the walking foot and I’ve since used it on a bunch of other stretch fabric projects.

at the wedding of a friend this May.